 Today we once again pivoted, as is often the case in July, to an earlier time due to the wind. The tide was falling in the salt marsh, but this crew of four had remarkable spirits. They were great. And the low tide offered us a chance to see the oysters spitting and the egrets wading in the mud, and the orange beard sponge washed up on the flats. One roseate spoonbill flew over, too. The wind was a little gusty at times, and a few fishing charters were out and about, but the paddling and company were very fine indeed. Shrimp popped in the shallows, and a bluefish leapt out of the water. We chatted in the way of old friends as we did an out-and-back--very much an uphill then downhill kind of day, what with the tide and wind going with us on the ride home. I always really appreciate people who stay positive and see the beauty in the marsh, even in less-than-ideal conditions, for every day is a beautiful day in the Murrells Inlet salt marsh.
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 I got down to Wacca Wache for a 5 pm tour, unloaded the boats, and then took a better look at the river. It was raging with wind and tide. So, I called this group, and thankfully they were close and could come look for themselves. They were chill and cool--two were from Germany!--and after some back and forth, we decided to go to Peachtree Landing, I'm so glad we did. Buckskin Creek, even against the tide, was very fine and pleasant as far as paddling goes, especially at sunset. We shared many laughs as we wound through the swamp. We didn't see any alligators, like we'd hoped, but we caught sight of an osprey fishing and some turtles plopping and some cypress trees in all their summer sunset glory.
 I was initially a little worried about this heat wave, and as the old saying goes, there ain’t no shade in the salt marsh. But the clouds provided, if not shade, much UV blockage that, with the light breeze, made the day fine for paddling. We—the Shaws from Florida and I—took the winding back creeks most of the way up into Huntington Beach State Park, and we watched the green herons and the great egrets lift, and the eagles and ospreys soar above. A big barge with a bulldozer sat in the middle of the creek, though I don’t know what that’s all about. The tide was coming in fast and high, and we used it mostly to our advantage to circle through the marsh maze. Being from near Destin, they were accustomed to the salt life, and they brought a great energy and enthusiasm and knowledge to the tour. Right when we ended, the wind kicked up, churning the water into whitecaps, and we were glad for the good timing, and another beautiful day in the Murrells Inlet salt marsh.
 Victoria and Tim met me before the sun had risen, with the skyline above the horizon flaring in peaches and apricots. We crossed the Westin Flats with just enough water not to scrape the oyster beds, and we watched the big bright orange globe rise above the Kingfisher Inn. We wound through the Charlie Cut, staying on the edges out of the incoming tide, and circled home via the mazy marsh creeks as great egrets took flight and mullet jumped. The world may be chaotic and crazy, but for this hour, here in the Murrells Inlet salt marsh, it was calm and contemplative and absolutely wonderful.
 I plucked a swamp rose and passed the flower around—to both groups, a couple from Colorado, and a local family of four—because TIL (“Today I learned”) that swamp roses are as fragrant as any rose. So, from now on, we will stop to smell the roses on River Reader trips when they are in bloom. And as we did so, a gator swam past. Terror and beauty, I joked.
This was another calm water, calm weather day with good people. What more, I often say, can you ask for? Well, a large Atlantic sturgeon leapt from the river, achieving a an aerial height of, I’d guess, four feet.  Kentucky people are generally, I’ve found, good people. And this group from Kentucky was my kind of people. They’d gone with me before in the salt marsh, a few years back, but this time it was river time. I decided to take the scenic route to the island. We went down Cow House and cut through the canal with the white mallows in big full bloom. A small wind tickled the wild rice.
The water was calm and pleasant in White Creek, with one small gator, and in Vaux Creek, too, despite having turned towards ebb. On the island, everything seemed sluggish and shy-- Even the pitcher plants were bent down, their tubes filled with the recent rain. Our group, though, was cheerful, talking in the way of old friends. On the way home, as the current was ripping, we saw in the channel marker nest two, osprey fledglings, curious and golden-eyed.  Sunrise on the river is where it’s at. I’m telling you. The water was calm, the light was gorgeous, and we had the river to ourselves. Well, except for the sturgeon leaping five feet out of the water, and the osprey circling and dive-bombing over and over again for a fish, and the alligator heads sinking under, and the swallowtail kite soaring above, and the yellow-bellied sliders popping up, and the light breeze fluttering the swamp roses, and the anhinga taking flight, and the herons croaking in their rookeries, and the obedient plants and pickerelweed blooming purply among the morning. Otherwise, it was just me and this kind, interesting, and interested family of four from Maryland. I wish I could start every morning like this morning.
 A family from eastern NC called to see if they could hop on the Sandy Island tour, and I decided to go for it--even though it was a last-hour booking--and once again, I was super glad I did because they were awesome. A sturgeon jumped in sunlight right when we got on the river, and the flooding tide scooted us right along upriver. We saw a big brown water snake in the crook of a cypress tree, wrapped around a knee. Herons in the rookery. Ospreys on the wing. Baby gators in the back creeks. On the island, we saw turkey tracks on the road and redheaded woodpeckers flying from pine to pine. The yellow pitcher plants leaned over, their tubes filled with rain. One velvet ant crawled across the soft sand of the road. Andrew, who works in historical construction and renovation, assessed the bricks in the rubble pile and concluded they were modern. He could see an oil sheen on the bricks, and the mortar was a clue, too. Back in the kayaks, a light rain cooled us off, and we crossed the river after the canal and returned on river left. We caught a current by the shoreline, and a little tailwind, and I noticed another rookery I'd never seen before, the herons just as cranky. This ancient river never gets old.
 I'm really glad I took this last-minute booking for a two-hour river tour on a Tuesday afternoon. Colleen, Molly, Peggy, and I had the river to ourselves, and even though we launched an hour or so after the high tide, we made our way upriver just fine along the shoreline. Blooming swamp roses and pickerelweed provided the perfect touches of color, pink and purple, as ospreys flew overhead or shrieked their car-alarm calls from their nests. In Vaux Creek, we took a pause, and I heard a red-tailed hawk overhead and maybe a king rail (?) in the wild rice. At the dock we took a break, which is longer than a pause, and drank water while drinking in the lowcountry beauty. By the time we made it back to the river, the tide was ebbing strongly enough for light paddling on the return home. And I tell you, without exception, everyone who comes kayaking with me is cool because people who want to slow down and observe at the pace of a kayak are, by nature, cool.
 There was already good light in the sky at 6 am when we launched from Morse Park landing—Kimberly, her 15 year-old son, and his friend, from Virginia—as shrimp popped in the shallows on an outgoing tide. We wound through the marsh creeks, where green herons fished from the pluff mud banks and schools of menhaden shot out of the water. A low-lying cloudbank prevented the great big orange sun from coming up perfectly over the horizon, but the dawn light was still beautiful, and we paddled across the Westin Flats, scraping a few oysters but finding our way through the channel by the PVC pipes. We rounded Parsonage Creek and came home along the docks, having earned our breakfast. They were familiar with marsh life having spent lots of time on the Chesapeake Bay, and I was grateful and impressed that two 15 year-old boys would rise in the dark to paddle. This was my first sunrise paddle of the season, and I am reminded, here as I write this, that sunrise paddles are the best way to begin a day.
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AuthorHastings Hensel Archives
July 2026
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